From Vermont, lofty chocolates

The premium chocolate field is as thick as cocoa syrup. But a Vermont chocolatier has climbed to the top of the mountain with portion-controlled nibbles that deliver the richness of chocolate without the guilt -- or at least less guilt.

Lake Champlain Chocolates offers treats in squares, each less than half an ounce, representing chocolate from around the world. Tanzania, boasting an intense 75-percent cocoa content, is beautifully bitter and unabashedly luxuriant, winning my top vote.

So how good is it? Groaningly good -- and I'm talking about an embarrassingly unguarded groan more often associated with passion than snacking.

Mild chocolate (34 percent cocoa) is mild and baby sweet. There are 10 varieties in all, each delivering superior taste and the firm, waxy bite that is a hallmark of the best chocolate. Certified kosher, preservative free and organic, the squares cost $7.95 for a 10-pack and are available at Whole Foods, Amazon.com and through the company Web site, http://www.lakechamplainchocolates.com/

The chocolatier also offers an array of other confections, all shiny, gorgeous and hand-crafted, ranging from a package of 30 truffles, priced at $60, to pretty assortments that include peanut butter cups, a house favorite.