In time for St. Patrick's Day, the Big Cheese(s)

A fond memory of Ireland is the Ploughman's Lunch, a quartet of Irish cheeses as smooth as a tenor's serenade, served up with a hearty slab of bread and a crunchy green pickle.

I recalled those pleasant repasts in enjoying the Irish Range, a collection of four cheeses brought to us by our own excellent cheesemakers in the dairy state of Wisconsin, Roth Kase, a maker of specialty, hand-crafted cheeses.

Roth Kase's roots are in Switzerland but the cheesemaker seems to have Irish techniques down pat.

Donovan's Double Diamond Darby is made in the tradition of semi-soft Derby cheese, typified by a slightly sweet taste with a tangy finish.

Emerald Swiss is delicate, the perfect partner for a cracker, and Kelly's Cow is velvet soft, yummy melted on a slice of brown bread. (The cheesemaker suggests melting equal parts of both cheeses and adding a shot of Irish whiskey for a festive fondue.)

Roth Kase imported Donovan's Auld Irish Cheddar from Ireland and it's worth the trip. Lush and buttery, it's an ideal choice for an after-dinner cheese course.

The cheeses are available at Whole Foods; Costco is offering the Emerald Swiss.