A harmonious trio of wines from Guenoc Valley

The picturesque Guenoc Valley is one of Nature's gifts, a vast, unspoiled and craggy swath 60 miles north of San Francisco, a place of both cool, shimmering lakes and reminders of intense heat in the form of volcanic cinder cones.

From this earth springs forth the wines of Langtry Estates, which encompasses 35 square miles, one of the biggest contiguous parcels in private hands in California. A trio of recent releases reflects both the vineyard's natural attributes and the winemaker's passion for excellence.

Langtry's 2004 Guenoc Lake County Cabernet Sauvignon is blended with Petit Verdot and Merlot for complexity and depth. Its flavors of cherries and black currants are a robust match for beef. It's also a good candidate for the cellar. The price: $18.

An elegant 2005 Guenoc Lake County Petite Sirah ($20) is well balanced, with lush blackberry, licorice and spice flavors, as well as chewy tannins. It's a classy accompaniment to hearty, meat-based dishes such as osso bucco.

Priced at $16, the 2006 Lake County Savignon Blanc might be the best white for the buck I've tasted this summer. It's bright yet complex, with aromas of guava and honeysuckle, as well as a pleasant citrusy side, with aromas of lemon and grapefruit. Put a bottle on ice with oysters on the half shell.

To learn more about these and other Langtry wines, go to http://www.langtryestate.com/